The morning started at 6am for me making 3 batches of pancakes to leave for the family when they woke up. Got a txt from Thomas as I was on my way saying it was 4.5 and that the swell was pumping. Arrived to some sweet looking waves rolling in down the beach, although it was pretty obvious that the wind was a lot lighter on the inside. 4.7 and wave bd was the call after I saw one of the guys from the lake go out first on his 5.3.
Sent the mandatory txt to the boys before I went out telling them that Taka was firing and that they should get down here asap. Some nice wave rides to be had on the way back in. Given the direction you could actually sail DTL which was great. Just had to be mindful how far into the beach you went. The best picks were the larger sets that started breaking further out so that you could get several turns in before kicking out.
Tried a few backies and landed one nicely (first one on this board). Crashed a couple of others and thought that I'd busted a boom or mast on one of them.
Called it quits when the wind backed off and I started to feel tired and took a few pics of the boys.