Had a big leave pass today. Didn't know what to do with it. Wind was puffing in around 10 knots, windsurfing was out, SUPing was out. Surfing was the only option and then it was only tiddly down at Lyall.
Threw the Mal on the racks and only chucked some big windsurfing gear in because I had heard Gary (Sneaky lyall session) McCorry had been out down the beach earlier.
Lyall Bay wasn't particularly inspiring low tide close out and about waist high. Wind looked pretty light too. After much debating with myself I eventually, decided that I needed to stop thinking and do something.
The windsurfing gear came out first. Just because I wanted to see how my 81 litre fanatic new wave would go at really low wind Lyall, fully expecting to not even be able to get off the beach.
In the end I got off the beach really comfortably, and the swell got bigger and gruntier too as the tide turned, or the swell pulsed. First wave I got was head high - one big turn down the line and into a nice snappy aerial.
Yeah! It was about 10 times better than I expected, and the next few waves were even better
Waves continued to come in regularly, the wind was really cross shore, just enough to keep the board from sinking, and while I was grovelling, I was able to pick up waves really easy. The only bummer was that it was difficult to hook into a peeling session as most waves were closing out on the low tide banks. Still, it was fun to fang down the line turning late enough so that you connected with the lip on the way back up the face.
After about an hour and a bit the wind edged slightly more offshore and got a bit more puffy. This made it a bit harder and a lot more grovelly. Still, I had scored a pretty good down the line day with a heap of waves and a clutch of aerials completely out of the blue.
A few lessons learn't today.
- Always be prepared - for the unexpected (is that a scouts moto?)
- you can get really good down the line in cross offshore conditions in less than 10 knots.
- my 81 litre board works pretty good in really light conditions
And finally . .
- never trust Gary McCorry to let you know when Lyall Bay is working.
Thanks for the photos Gary.