Swell: S-SE 4m @ 10s Wind: SW 15-20kn Tide: H 1:44m @ 12:15pm
Horrible ugly day weather wise. There is an East Coast Low intensifying and nudging up against a High down south. This is aiming a strong fetch of wind directly at the Sydney coast. Today we have another day of pretty much non-stop rain and strong winds (cross offshore though). Surf is on the increase. Its very large today, but due to be monsterous tomorrow.
Having viewed decent waves at Warriewood this morning I ventured out at around 11:15am. I didn't have the nerve for the rock off so tried the paddle out by the rocks. Set after set came through pushing me back. I persevered and maybe half an hour later I made it out the back to join just 3 other surfers (saw a few others try paddle out and not make it).
Wave faces were easily 6-8 foot, some bigger. It was fairly clean, with some nice looking big waves but it was difficult to be in the right position for the waves as they were breaking at different places. There were some cleanup sets coming through which must have had 9-10 foot faces.
Caught one wave, made the drop, but the wave closed down. That was it. I paddled around trying to judge the right wave to take, but it was right on my threshold of fear and proving difficult to get on the waves. After copping my 3rd cleanup set on the head and having horror hold downs the message was clear - get out. Got thrashed around some more coming in.
Its exhilerating to be out in bug surf but I think I bit off more than I could chew today. Tomorrow I will explore the beaches from the land and just watch.