I knew I was too late for the best waves today, but I just wanted to go..
Drove very fast to the spot because I just wanted to get in the water and don't miss more and hoped the get some nice wave expecting it would drop pretty fast..
The waves were messy but now and then a waisthigh set came through, getting steep real quick and good riding was only a few times possible ..lot's of closeout.
This session was very good to practice the balance and because the waves builded up real quick it was necessary to react and turn quick, so that was a good practice to!
Also tried switch stand, but this didn't work out for me as I have stand in surf stance on this board catching the wave...I find it hard to do in the switch stance...so this need more practice
Did see seals and a Bruinvis (little dolphin) too...great SUN
So I did enjoy myself although the waves where not that pretty