Swell: 2.5+m @ 10s Tide: L 0.5m @ 7:08pm Wind: stiff offshore Board: 6'0 Sam Egan
Checked the surf at 5:30pm - maybe 2 foot+ on sets but new swell showing. Went down for a surf around 6:15pm - now its 5-6 foot on the sets. Heaps of water moving around. Really glassy and clean except for the rip. Set waves now big and mean. Waves were a bit straight. Caught 2 waves and just came in - felt pretty sketchy given my current fitness and skill levels. Really insane kick in swell.