Not the best session
First trying to get behind the outer bank was drama...30 minutes fighting and getting into a nasty current...failed to get behind and went back to the beach to find a better place...
Then trying 200 meters to the north and got back in 1 attempt :) But very choppy, hard to even just keep standing and the tide got higher and the waves where still bigg, but less steap...
Then wave 1, big one, did ride it to the right, lots of speed, no topturn as the wave faded away when I got back to the lip
Second wave ...BIG mama...big line also, takeoff, but saw it would closeout, so straight ahead, lots of speed... Afterward Lex told me the lip was litterly above my head as he saw me taking it from the side :)
But it also brought me back in front of the outer bank, didn't feel to fight me a way to the back again, so called it a day
Did take a few pictures of the guys in the shorebreak as it als started to work